Travel Virus

It is synonym of green and water, an unusual India. It’s also the richest state of India, with the highest educational level, the best health care system and with most equality between men and women. The Kerala miracle has been object of many economic studies, that try to investigates the cause of the success and to find the recipe of this development. The reason have most often been identified in the Gulf money, meaning the income that people from Kerala (Malayali) who work abroad, send back to their families in Kerala, to build holliwoodian houses and provide high quality education for their children (that often remain in India). Another possible cause is supposed to be the communism government: Kerala is the first state in the world where the communist party has been freely elected. I would suggest that a third important cause is the extreme beauty of the place and of the people, that keeps attracting tourists and is an incentive for the people that work abroad to come back.

Touristically speaking, I believe the most amazing beauty of Kerala are the backwaters: canals and lakes of half-salty water that can be found all around the state, sometimes also quite far from the coast. The must visit is the region between Cochin (Kochi) and Aleppy. Here the backwaters reach their top! The water from the sea is coming inland from the biggest city of the state, Cochin, and they stretch for 200 Km all the way to Aleppy, touching other beautiful towns like Kumarakom. Taking a boat ride on the backwaters is an incredible experience that fulls the eyes of green and blue, wildlife and human stories along the rivers.

More south you can find Kollam, which is almost undiscovered to mass tourism and has amazing panoramas, the sea and the backwaters are only 2 kilometers of distance (20 rupies on a rickshaw).There are also westernalized beaches like Varkala and Kovalam, where the prices are higher but there is some infrastructure for beach life and it’s fine to swim in bikini.

Finally Kerala offers also lots of mountains and wildlife: in Peryar wildlife sanctuary (about 4 hours from Kottayam on the backwaters) you can see wild bisons and several kinds of birds. Near the park it’s also possible to take an amazing elephant ride!

In conclusion… Kerala is a sort of green, rich westernalized India with beaches, absolutely worth visiting!!!

Travel tips, what to visit:

Cochin/Ernakulam: visit forth cochin which is the oldest part of the city with various churches, dutch palace, synagogue, fish market. Take a ferry to Ernakulam, it’s only few rupies!
Donts: avoid the Talk of the town restaurant reccomanded in the lonely planet, it’s very expensive – about 3 times – compared to similar restaurants!

Kumarakom: a very small village full of luxury resorts, just 14 km from Kottayam. Amazing nature and wildlife (birds): take a boat tour to Vembanad lake (about 2 hours return for 200 Rs). There is also a bird santuary but I’ve seen more birds outside of it.

Periyar wildlife santuary: in the mountains about 3-4 hours from Kottayam by bus, in the town of Kumili. It’s worth the trip only if you are not car sick because the driving style (especially downhill) is very brave and can upset the stomach. It’s possible to take elephant rides.
Donts: never take a “fast bus”: it’s very dangerous, as they are just allowed to drive over the normal speed limit!! Crazy!

Aleppy: take a boat tour on the backwaters or also a bike ride around the villages: it’s a town and local life can be experiences just few kilometers from the centre. From there you can take a ferry to Kollam (take the whole day)

Kollam: un undiscovered secret! Visit both the backwaters and the beach, where the kids are flying kites. At suset is very romantic (but quite crowded).

Varkala: western style beach, a bit expensive but amazing view from the top looking down the ocean. I suggest staying in the Kerala bamboo house (they also have a website): it’s cheap and with great atmosphere. Their restaurant is not as good as the rooms, but there is a nice one near by called something like mediterraneum.

Trivandrum: the capital. Messy like all cities that are too big, and I guess the most dangerous place in Kerala. There are several museums and a zoo, all conveniently located close by.
Donts: avoid hotel Manjalikulam, suggested in the lonely planet, but very unfriendly staff and dirty rooms for a non-budget hotel

Houseboats: these cute wooden (huge) boats are very nice and romantic, and they are the biggest business in Kerala, so prices are quite high, about 200 euros a day/night including food and the driver (which is about 4 times the monthly salary of an average worker!) Be careful not to be cheated. They are driving around the canals during the day but they don’t move during the night.